You can then wipe on different shades of stain to make your pattern. Poly can be sprayed but needs thinned, not sure what thinning and spraying would do for the stain. For stains, you apply then wipe off excess. Polyshades is supposed to be applied in a couple of thin coats…and left to dry, sanding lightly between. Do you wipe off Minwax polyshades? Easiest way is to get some Circa 1850 stripper and some 80 grit sandpaper. You may be able to use some watered down bleach to lighten the wood some. I soak it on heavy and spread it out, then wipe off the excess. I do this after the large areas are dry so I don’t smudge adjacent areas. I choose Pecan to match my cabinets. The tint will obscure the wood grain some, but since it’s a surface finish, it won’t absorb unevenly into the wood like penetrating stain can. Polyshades as stated before is a tinted polyurethane. (practice on some similar wood first and let the wood dry thoroughly then sand or scrape smooth) Once you have the desired pattern, apply some clear finish to … It is recommended for interior wood surfaces such as furniture, molding, doors and cabinets. To thin the Polyshades might dilute the color. I use cut up pieces of old t-shirts. To stain the conventional way, brush it on wipe it off, would leave no brush marks. Waited for it to dry at least 8 hours, on the can it says 2-3 hours. Then sanded using 600 grit and wipe down with tack cloth. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades). Scuff up the poly with the 80 grit, slop on some stripper and keep it wet until the poly wrinkles or starts to slough off. PolyShades® is a one-step stain and polyurethane in one product. You need to be careful how you apply this because each coat you put on will make the project darker. The poly finish will not allow you to wipe it off…and you’ll end up gunking it up. Repeated 4 times. Minwax® PolyShades® to the rescue! Now I’m a little bit of a control freak when it comes to stain, and like to be able to adjust my stain as I go, so I normally turn to stain first, and then top coat when I’m absolutely … Use Wipe-On Poly for Small or Tight Areas. Then spray the poly. I have used it many times with zero issues. Getting Started. Typically, I use the traditional two-step method: apply my stain, wiping off the excess liquid before it dries, then the next day apply a clear finish. You may apply the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane over a fully cured Minwax Wood Finish Stain (oil-based). Re: removing Minwax polyshades Bob! Minwax PolyShades is a combination stain and polyurethane finish for wood. Then applied 4 coats total of Minwax wipe on satin poly. If you're using the Minwax Polyshades product or something similar, you don't need to use a clear poly finish afterwards, as the product is a mix of both stain and polyurethane. You coat the project with the Polyshades and it does the color coat along with the top coat at the same time. And when you scuff sand (with 320 grit) you will be taking some of the color off. Or try the rattle cans. After the roll-on coats are dry, I use Minwax wipe on poly (use the same sheen you chose for the roll-on poly) for the face frames, legs, doors or any other narrow, small or intricate areas. When using Minwax PolyShades instead of a separate stain and varnish, you save time and effort as you protect and beautify your furniture or trim with a … However, I think you'd still have to fight the "bleed-back" challenge because of the porosity of the red oak. Second, it does not spray well, and using a brush will create nasty bubbles and imperfections. 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